I hope that you’ve already read about how to choose the best bike lock. And that you’ve got a good idea which level of security you need, and the type of lock that’s right for you.
But it’s not just about the lock!…
You also need to know how to secure your bike properly. Because whichever lock you choose, if you don’t use it properly, your bike will be stolen.
So in this guide, I’ll show you several ways to lock your bike (and several ways you should never lock your bike!)
As ever, it’s about finding the right balance between practicality and security. You obviously need to use a method that prevents your bike from being stolen. But that method should also be easy to use, every day.
We will go through every possible way to lock your bike and rate each one for security and practicality, so you are fully informed.
The guide is divided into three parts based on the three places where you’ll likely be locking your bike: in the street, at home, and at work or college.
This is a long read, but stick with it, as there are tips and insights you won’t find in any other guide to locking your bike!
Part 1. How to lock your bike in the street
A badly locked bike in the street will disappear very quickly. Luckily, thinking carefully about where and how you lock your bike in the street can go a long way to prevent this happening…
Where should I lock my bike in the street?
Although the type of neighborhood you live in will affect this, there are some general tips which you should always try to follow…
Tip 1: Choose a busy place
Try to choose a busy location with lots of people walking past. If it’s an area well covered by CCTV, even better. Other people and CCTV make thieves nervous. They’d much prefer to be hidden away while they “work”.

Busy places are good!
Choose a place where lots of other bikes are already locked up. Ideally in the middle of a group of bikes rather than on the end. This serves three purposes:
Firstly, there’s bound to be badly locked bikes that are more tempting to a thief than your well-locked bike. Secondly, lots of bikes crammed together give a thief less room to maneuver and use their tools effectively.
And thirdly, the comings and goings of other cyclists may disturb them and if anyone is going to challenge a bike thief, (and let's face it: most people just walk on by), it's going to be other cyclists.

The middle of a busy bike rack is the place to be!
Tip 2: Secure your bike to an immovable object
A bike is only as secure as the object it is locked to. So make sure you always choose a fixed, immovable object that’s not easily broken.

These “Sheffield” stands are cemented into the ground and super secure!
Check the bike can’t be lifted over the top of whatever you’ve attached it to. Or that the object can’t be easily unscrewed or dismantled. Avoid trees, aluminum or wooden posts, sign posts, scaffolding and chain link fences.
If you choose metal railings, try to get the lock around as many railings as possible. But ideally, the immovable object would be a specially designed bike rack that’s cemented into the ground.
However, you even need to be careful with bike racks! Some sneaky thieves are cutting through the racks when they're empty and then covering up the cut with tape to hide what they've done…

Thieves are sawing through bike racks!
Once an unsuspecting cyclist has left their bike locked to the rack, the thief returns, prizes open the cut section and makes off with their bike! So check any rack you use hasn't been tampered with.
Tip 3: Don’t give thieves clues about where you are
If you’re going to the cinema, the leisure center or anywhere else where you might be away from your bike for a significant amount of time, consider locking your bike a couple of streets away.
Why? If a thief sees you locking your bike and then going into any of these places, they’ll know they’ve got a fair bit of time to work on your bike!
Tip 4: Take extra precautions in high risk areas
If you know an area is dangerous, avoid it. Or if you can’t avoid it, take an extra lock. And don’t leave your bike for too long!
A summary of where to lock your bike in the street:
- Choose a busy area with CCTV
- Lock your bike in the middle of lots of other bikes
- Always secure your bike to a fixed, immovable object, ideally a bike rack
- Don't lock your bike outside places that it’s obvious you’ll be at for a long time
- If you know it's a high theft risk area, take an extra lock
How should I lock my bike in the street?
This will vary depending on what sort of bike you’ve got, which lock you use and where you secure it. However, there are certain tips you should always follow…
Tip 1: Always secure your frame
Always make sure that you’ve locked your frame to the immovable object. If you only secure your bike through the wheel, a thief will simply remove your wheel and walk off with the rest of the bike.
This may sound obvious, but it happens all the time…

If you only lock your wheel, the rest of the bike will be stolen
This is a particularly easy mistake to make in a particular type of “toast holder” bike rack, where only the wheel is in contact with the rack. It’s almost impossible to lock anything but the wheel to these bike racks, so they should be avoided completely!
Tip 2: Keep your lock off the ground
Try to keep the lock away from the ground. If it’s on the ground, a thief can use a hammer to smash the lock against the hard floor, and this will break open cheaper and weaker bike locks.
But even if it is close to the ground, a thief can use the floor for added leverage in a bolt cutter attack. This enables them to use their weight to cut locks that they would ever have the strength to crop otherwise:
However, if you’re using a u-lock, you should also avoid the top tube. If the lock is around the top tube of the bike, a thief can use the bike frame itself to try to break the lock by lifting and twisting the whole bike.

Don't secure your u-lock around the top tube!
A good lock won’t succumb to this kind of attack, but it’s likely to severely damage your bike!
Since there’s generally more space left inside the lock when it's on the top tube, a thief could also insert a length of metal that can be used to twist and pop the lock open.
Or they could simply cut through the immovable object and ride off on your bike (if the lock was around a wheel too, they wouldn’t be able to ride away without cutting through the lock as well).

Keep your lock away from the ground. But off the top tube.
So, ideally the lock should go high up around the down tube, the seat tube, or the seat stays. And of course one of the wheels.
If you’re using a chain lock, then it’s even more important that you keep it far from the ground, as chains are much easier to cut with bolt croppers.

Around the top tube is far from the ground, but the wheel is not protected
And since they’re not vulnerable to leverage attacks, wrapping the chain around the top tube is OK (although the seat stays and a wheel would be better, if it also keeps the chain away from the ground).

Around the chain stays is far from the ground and protects the wheel
Tip 3: Prioritize protecting the rear wheel
After the frame, the rear wheel is usually the most expensive part of a bicycle. It therefore makes sense to prioritize protecting the rear wheel from thieves.

If you have to choose: secure the frame and rear wheel (rather than frame and front wheel)
So, if you only use one bike lock, secure it around the rear wheel and frame. If you have two locks, use the primary (more secure) lock on the rear wheel and frame, and the secondary (less secure lock) on the front wheel and frame.
Tip 4: Make the lock difficult to access
Try to make the lock as difficult to access as possible. Because if it's difficult to access, it will be difficult to attack.
And if you can position it so the keyhole is facing downwards, even better. This will make it more difficult to tamper with the locking mechanism...

This mechanism is difficult to access
Thieves may try to put superglue in the keyhole to prevent you unlocking your bike, forcing you to leave it in the street overnight, and giving them more time to steal it when the streets are quieter.
Bike thieves don’t generally pick locks. But if the keyhole is hard to access, all of these forms of attack become more difficult.
Tip 5: Always fill the inside of a u-lock
If you’re using a u-lock, try to fill as much of the space within the “U” with the bike and the thing it’s attached to. This is really important…

No room inside this u-lock for a bottle jack or pry bar!
The most common way that the better u-locks are broken is with leverage attacks. A length of metal or scaffolding pole is inserted into the space within the “U” and twisted until it pops open.
Hydraulic bottle jack attacks are less common but also depend on there being enough space inside the u-lock to insert the tool.

Attacking a u-lock with a bottle jack
However, if there’s no spare room inside the “U”, a thief can’t use either of these methods. So keep those u-locks full!
Tip 6: Don’t forget your components
Your general locking method should protect your bike frame and both your wheels. But don’t forget about your other components.
Thieves will rob anything that’s easy to get off your bike. So make sure you take any lights, bags, electronics etc. with you when you leave your bike. Things like gears and brakes are harder to remove, so you just have to hope a thief won’t bother!
But your saddle is particularly vulnerable. If it’s attached with a quick release lever, it will almost certainly be stolen if left. You could take it with you, or lock it with a cable, but both of those options are a hassle.

There are many ways to protect your set (here I'm using Hexlox)
Instead, I would recommend swapping the quick release lever for a regular bolt or, even better, a security bolt.
Find load more info on the best way to protect your bike components (including wheels, saddles, headsets, and everything else).
A summary of how to lock your bike in the street:
- Always lock the frame (not just the wheel!) to the immovable object
- Keep the lock as far from the ground as possible
- Don’t use u-locks around the top tube
- Make the lock difficult to access
- Fill as much of the internal space in a u-lock as possible
- Take all easy to remove components with you
5 ways to lock your bike in the street
Making use of those general tips, here are five popular ways to lock your bike on the street. Which one suits you best will depend on how expensive your bike is and which locks you have.
1. Secure your bike with one lock and a cable

Using a cable and a u-lock
This is probably the most common way to lock a bike in the street. And it usually combines a u-lock and a cable lasso.
It could also work with a chain or folding lock in place of the u-lock. But since many u-locks are sold with supplementary cable lassos, this is the set-up you’ll usually see.
When done correctly, the u-lock should secure the frame and the rear wheel to the bike rack. While the cable loops around the front wheel as a lasso, with the free end attaching to the u-lock.
To protect the frame, the lock can go through the seat tube, the seat stays, or the chain stays. However, if you’re using a thinner u-lock, I would advise against the chain stays as it positions the lock very close to the ground where it’s more vulnerable to bolt croppers.
And if you're using a chain or a folding lock (which are much more vulnerable to bolt cutters than u-locks), I would try to keep them high up around the seat stays, if possible.

This method provides lightweight protection for both wheels and your frame
The advantage of this method is that it’s a very lightweight way of protecting the frame and both wheels (as the cable weighs next to nothing).
But the problem with this method is that the cable is the only thing securing the front wheel. And since all cables can be snipped through in no time using a pair of tiny, handheld cable cutters, it’s not very secure.

Cable lassos:very lightweight but very NOT secure
Because of this, in the past, I would recommend that you didn’t lock your bike like this. However, after surveying thousands of cyclists, it seems that the visual, psychological deterrent of the cable is enough to stop your wheels being stolen in the majority of cases.
I’m still not a big fan of this method, though, and I never use it personally.
It’s not just the security aspect. I also find threading the cable through the bike in a tight, busy spot to be a hassle. And although they’re lightweight, the cables are quite bulky and not so easy to carry around.

I don't find this combination the most convenient carry
However, if you’re not riding a super expensive bike, it can work quite well as a lightweight and low-cost way to protect your frame and both wheels.
I wouldn’t recommend it for wheels that are attached with quick release skewers though (even for low value bikes).
And the truth is, there are much better ways to project your wheels. Security skewers are lighter, no hassle to carry around, and make locking your bike much easier. Yes, they cost a bit more, but for me, it’s a worthy investment.
One lock and Cable Lasso Summary:
- Security: 7/10
- Practicality: 8/10
- Money saving: 9/10
2. Secure your bike with one lock and security skewers or nuts

Using a u-lock and a security skewer
This method of locking your bike in the street is more secure than using a supplementary cable, and is also far more convenient. You essentially exchange the cable lasso for security skewers (or nuts) for your wheels.
Many modern bicycles come with quick release skewers on the front and back wheels. These allow you to quickly remove your wheels without the use of tools (you simply flip the lever and unscrew the skewer).

Quick release skewer = easy to steal wheel
These are obviously a dream come true for bike thieves. However, even those bikes with wheels that are attached with regular nuts are easy prey for a thief with a spanner! Which is why we should always protect our wheel when locking up in the street.

Replace the quick release skewers on your bike for security skewers
This method involves replacing the quick release skewers or regular nuts with ones that are more difficult to remove. There are too many different versions of these to go into details here (I have a whole article about them).
But they usually require a special tool (which a thief won’t have) in order to loosen them and remove the wheels.
Once they are installed, your wheels are protected to a much higher level than any cable. And locking your bike becomes much easier, as generally you only have to worry about locking your frame.
You could even use a smaller lock, as you don’t need to worry about it going through the wheel as well as the frame (although I would always recommend locking the wheel and frame where you can).
These security skewers and nuts are not infallible: they can be defeated. And when my bike is left for long periods (e.g. overnight in the street), I use two proper locks as well. But I have been using this method for general street security for years, and have never had a single wheel theft!
One lock and Security Skewers/Nuts Summary:
- Security: 8/10
- Practicality: 10/10
- Money saving: 8/10
3. Secure your bike with two locks

Using two u-locks
This is the most secure way to lock your bike. Ideally, each lock should secure the frame and one wheel to the bike rack.
However, two locks that are big enough to go around the frame and one of the wheels, would usually be a heavy and bulky combination.
So in many cases, a more secure (primary) lock goes around the frame and the back wheel. While a less secure (secondary) lock, either secures the front wheel to the frame, or secures the front wheel to the bike rack.
Securing the secondary lock around the wheel and the frame is the least secure of those two options, as it allow the thief to carry the bike away after defeating the primary lock. While they would have to at least to unattach the wheel if it was locked to the rack, and then they would be stealing a bike with a missing wheel.
Using two different types of lock provides an additional layer of security, since different tools and methods are needed to defeat different locks.
For example, chains aren’t vulnerable to the leverage attacks with poles that defeat many u-locks. And the thicker u-locks aren’t as vulnerable to the medium-sized bolt cutters that will cut many chains.

Using a chain and a u-lock
Although angle grinders will cut through all locks, they’re a bit more difficult to use on chains than u-locks, owing to the links moving about as they are being cut.
So the best combination is a u-lock and a chain. But two chains, two u-locks, two folding locks or any combination of the aforementioned can work well, as long as they are all secure enough.
Since I leave my bike in the street, overnight, I like to use a heavy chain and a smaller u-lock. I leave the chain lock permanently attached to the bike rack, so I don’t have to carry it around with me.
And then I depend solely on the u-lock (and security skewers for the wheels) in the day. But if I know I’m going somewhere risky or to a place where it might be left overnight, I can always take the chain lock with me.
However, it’s worth mentioning that if you choose to leave a heavy lock in a public place, a thief might sabotage the big lock while you’re away, forcing you to use only the other, smaller lock when you return. Whereupon, he will pounce on your compromised security. So be careful!
Two locks Summary:
- Security: 10/10
- Practicality: 7/10
- Money saving: 7/10
4. Secure your bike with one lock and a removed front wheel

Removing a wheel to use one U-lock
You don’t tend to see this method of locking a bike in the street as much anymore. And there are good reasons: it’s fiddly, time-consuming, and can lead to your forks and your wheel being damaged!
But if you find yourself stuck with just one lock and two quick release wheels on your bike, it’s a viable way to protect the whole bicycle.
How does it work? You remove your front wheel, place it next to the rear wheel, and then attach your bike lock around both wheels, the frame and the bike rack.
This ensures that both wheels and the frame are secured with one lock. And if you’re using a u-lock it’s going to be full of more stuff and therefore less susceptible to a leverage or bottle jack attack.
However, bear in mind that this method requires a standard or larger sized u-lock. And using a chain or folding lock instead would be very fiddly.
You’ll also need quick release wheels, which means you’ll have to do it everywhere you go to prevent the front wheel being stolen!
For me, this is more of an emergency method. There are much better ways to protect your whole bike.
One lock and Removed Front Wheel Summary:
- Security: 9/10
- Practicality: 5/10
- Money saving: 9/10
5. Secure your bike with the “Sheldon” method

Using the “Sheldon” method
This is simply another (unusual) way to protect your frame and your rear wheel. For full bike protection that includes the front wheel, you would need to combine it with a cable, security skewers/nuts or a secondary lock.
Sheldon Brown, the renowned bicycle expert, advocated securing just the rear wheel to the bike rack, using a u-lock somewhere within the rear triangle of the frame.
He maintained that by using this method, you don’t need to secure the frame to the bike rack as well because the wheel can’t be pulled through the rear triangle.
One of the advantages of this method is that because you’re only securing the wheel, you can usually get away with a smaller, lighter u-lock. Check out my best lightweight bike lock page for some good examples!
However, I’m not sure about this technique, especially for more expensive bikes. With some effort, a dedicated thief can saw through the rear wheel to remove the lock.
I can also imagine an opportunist thief not realizing the bike was properly secured and causing significant damage to your bike while they tried to remove it.
However, if for whatever reason you can’t maneuver your bike into a position where you can lock the frame as well, I think this technique is OK for short periods. I wouldn’t leave a bike locked like this for longer periods though.
Part 2. How to lock your bike at home
It’s worth remembering that while street theft gets all the attention, over 50% of stolen bikes are taken from the owner’s home. That means from the front or back garden, from a shed or garage on the property, or from inside the house or flat itself.
What can you do to prevent this? Well, although bike security at home is often more difficult than bike security in the street, there’s still plenty you can do to protect your ride.
Let’s look at each of these areas of the home in more detail…
Keeping your bike inside your house/flat
Inside your house or flat is definitely the safest place to keep your bike. However, many people are either unable or unwilling to share their living space with bicycles.
Maybe they (or more often other family members!) don’t like the idea of big, wet, dirty machines cluttering up their home. Maybe they don’t like the hassle of dragging a bike into the building. Or maybe there just isn’t enough space.
If space is the issue, there are plenty of companies now offering storage solutions for bikes inside the home.
Such contraptions vary hugely in design and price. But at the end of the day, they all amount to something you attach to the wall or ceiling to hang your bike from.

The fantasy
They look great in the adverts, but the stylish bikes in the adverts are never covered in 3 months of London street grime...

The reality!
However, if you can fit your bike in your house and there are no problems with it being there, this is definitely the safest place to keep it.
Keeping your bike in communal spaces
If you live in a flat with shared communal space inside the building, it can be tempting to leave your bike there (often in the hallway, just inside the front door). But this is a very unsafe place to store anything.

Bikes in a communal hallway
Usually there’s nothing to secure your bike to, and because it’s not your space, little opportunity to install something.
So in the end, your unprotected bike sits in the hallway waiting for someone to forget to close or lock the door and someone else to stroll in and off with it!
Because one thing's for sure: no one else in the building is thinking about keeping your bike safe.
One DIY solution is to fill a large bucket with cement and stick a ground anchor or an old u-lock in the wet cement to set. Voilà, you have a pretty heavy anchor you can leave in the hallway to secure your bike to.
I have a friend who added some plastic flowers to the top of the bucket to make it look less intrusive to the other residents of the building!
Now theoretically this will only slow down, rather than stop a committed thief. But in reality, it will foil most opportunists.
Keeping your bike in a shed or garage
If you’re lucky, maybe you have a garage or a bike shed at home. And if you can’t keep your bike inside your house, then this is the next safest alternative.
Usually, garages are more secure than sheds. However, you should never, ever leave your bike unlocked in either one (even if it's on your bike stand, and you're still working on it).
Remember, over 50% of stolen bikes are taken from the owner's home, so no matter how safe it feels, this is where your bike is most at risk.
Finding something suitable you can lock your bike to in a garage or shed can be a challenge though…
Bikes in garages
Garages have the advantage of concrete floors and brick walls. This makes it relatively easy to install a ground anchor, which you can use with a heavy chain to secure your bike.

Garages are not as secure as they look!
Just like locks, anchors vary widely in levels of security and price. Luckily, they’re also rated by Sold Secure and ART, so it’s pretty easy to find a good one.
And since they will probably provide the biggest improvement to your security set up, I've written a complete guide to choosing and installing a good ground or wall anchor to help you find one!
Ground anchors can usually be attached to the floor or walls of a garage and are best used with chain locks.
Since you don’t need to worry about carrying these chains around, get the thickest chain you can afford. But make sure the chain is not so thick it won’t fit through the shackle of whichever anchor you choose!
Bikes in sheds
Wooden sheds don’t usually have concrete floors, which makes installing a normal ground anchor difficult.

Wooden sheds are easily broached (Superior shed by Crane Garden Buildings)
You could rip up a section of the floor, dig a hole into the earth below, fill it with concrete and then add an anchor such as the Oxford Terra Force to set in the wet concrete. However, this is a lot of work and may be completely unpractical.
Luckily, Pragmasis now offer a “shed shackle” specifically designed to give you something secure to lock your bike to in a wooden or metal shed or bike store. I think these are great.
They’re relatively cheap, practical and easy to install. What's more, if you couple one with a good chain, a thief would have to virtually demolish your shed to steal your bike.
There's loads of things you can do to make your shed more secure. From simple DIY tweaks like blocking the windows to more technological solutions like installing a shed alarm.
See my tips for boosting your shed security for lots of useful ideas!
Keeping your bike in the garden or yard
If you don’t have a garage or a shed but do have space in your garden or yard, consider buying a specially designed bike storage unit. The best (and most expensive) are made by Asgard.

Asgard bike storage. Very secure. Very expensive.
If there’s no space for a storage unit, then you’ll have to just keep your bike under a bike cover. In this case, if you’re able to install a ground anchor somewhere in your garden, then do it.
Maybe there’s a patch of concrete to attach an anchor to. Or you could dig a hole in the earth, fill it with wet concrete and add an Oxford Terra Force to set firm. Or you could use the bucket trick I suggest for communal spaces.
One very elegant solution, which unlike the other options, requires no installation and will actually make your outside space greener and more attractive, is a PlantLock.
These are giant (90 x 40 x 52 cm), steel troughs, in which you can grow all sorts of shrubs, herbs and flowers. And on each side, there's a 19 mm thick, boron steel handle that you can lock a bike to. So each PlantLock can secure two bikes in all.
Once the PlantLock is full of earth and plants, it will weigh around 75 kg (or even more after rainfall or watering), which certainly qualifies it as an “immovable object”. And for extra security, there are even holes in the base, so you can bolt it into the ground.
The 19 mm handles are impossible to bolt crop, case-hardened to resist sawing and tempered to repel any kind of brute force attack. The only way the PlantLock is likely to be defeated is with an angle grinder.
But in reality, a thief is far more likely to attack your bike lock instead (unless you're using an angle grinder resistant lock like the Litelok X1 or the Hiplok D1000).
Whichever of these methods you choose, the most important thing is that don’t leave your bike unsecured in your garden, no matter how private or out of the way it might seem. If you do, your bike will eventually be stolen.
Part 3. How to lock your bike at work
Many workplaces now offer private spaces where you can leave your bike if you’re commuting. This is great news!
Obviously the security levels in these places will vary. But the most important thing to remember is that if anyone other than you has access to the space, you should lock your bike as if you were locking it on the street.

You still need to lock your bike in here!
It doesn’t matter how small your office is or how secure the space seems. If other people have access to it, there’s a very real chance of it being compromised at some point.
While I was living in London, I lost count of how many times bikes were stolen from office lock-ups that seemed impregnable.
Wrapping up
Buying the best bike lock is only the first step. You need to know how to lock your bike properly too. And you need to lock your bike properly everywhere: in the street, at home and at work or college.
In the street, locking your bike to a strong, immovable object in a busy area with lots of other bikes and CCTV cameras is a great start.
But make sure you lock it in the right way too: locking the frame and the wheels, keeping the lock off the ground, and making sure you fill as much of the space inside a U-lock as you can.
If possible, use the same techniques you use in the street to lock your bike at home or at work. It doesn’t matter how secure your home or work environments seem, never leave your bike unlocked.
At home, often there is nothing really secure to lock your bike to. If this is the case, it is certainly worth investing in ground or a shed anchor.
Of course, none of these precautions will protect your bike if you use them with poor quality locks.
The latest bike theft statistics in the UK and the US are particularly worrying, so it's important not to skimp here.
In the street you’ll need a good u-lock or a portable chain lock. At home, you should use the thickest, strongest chain you can afford.
If you’re not sure which is best for you, check out my simple guide to choosing the right bike lock. And don't forget: if you don't want a jammed bike lock, you need to clean and lubricate it every 6 months or so!
Hi Carl, great site! Thank you for all you do on our behalf. I live in Dallas, Texas, a fairly big city. I’m receiving a much-awaited a Trek Crosscheck ALR5, aluminium-framed gravel bike today; and I want to give it the best security possible. I would have a hard time replacing it. On occasion will be riding it to the gym and locking it to a standard steel bike rack which is firmly anchored to the concrete slab, outside their main window.
Lock/chain weight is not so much a consideration. I’ve had the bike shop install HexLox and their through-axles on the wheels, saddle, saddle post, and handlebars. For the highest security should I still use both a top notch D-lock and a chain as you suggest somewhere in the text above, in addition to the HexLox; or do the HexLox replace my need for a chain?
A few more notes about securing the Trek Checkpoint ALR5, and whether my security setup might involve some chain or other:
1.) There are occasions when I might be riding around parts of town with telephone poles etc. and no bike racks.
2.) I live in a townhome with a fenced-in back yard accessible from the alley. Low to no monitoring or traffic. Maybe I should have a ground anchor and chain to give me the option to lock it up overnight, outdoors.
This all seems to suggest my having a chain that is secure enough for optional night-time lockup but still okay to carry with me when I go to non-rack areas of town. If I’m right, which one should I look at ~ the K.NY Noose? I’d still be well-advised to get a D-lock for best security during daytime? Would that mean carrying around something like a K.NY Noose and a K.Fahgeddaboudit Mini in my messenger bag? I don’t mind the workout, but is there an equally-secure way that happens to be lighter? Thanks, again!
Hi Stephen,
Well, first of all I think you made a great move with the Hexlox. I’m a huge fan. And they make the next step much easier.
For a $2K bike you should definitely make sure you’re covered by insurance. Whether that’s specialist insurance or part of your home insurance will depend on your circumstances.
The insurance may specify where you can and can’t leave your bike as well.
I’m not too keen on you leaving your bike outdoors in an accessible yard overnight. But if you have to, then definitely a ground anchor and thick chain are essential.
It’s a tricky one. Because the NY Noose was what I was going to suggest as well. It’s really secure. And it’s just about portable too.
But for such an expensive bike in such a sketchy situation, I feel like maybe a un-croppable chain might be better. So at least the Kryptonite NY Legend Chain. Or even a 16 mm chain.
But they’re far too heavy for when your riding around town.
If you could create a set up in your back yard where you could use a u-lock, then a combination of the NY Noose and a Fahgettaboudit would work really well. As the Fahgettaboudit would act as the un-croppable lock.
So I’m talking about using the u-lock and the chain in your yard. You could also look at an alarm!
Unless you were going somewhere really risky I think taking one or the other of them would be fine. Both together would be incredibly heavy.
If the Fahgettaboudit is too small to use in your yard then the Kryptonite NY Standard or even the Abus Granit 540 could work as well.
What do you think?
Carl
(posted by Guy with Trek Checkpoint)
Carl, thanks for the emailed thoughts. I think I’ll negotiate with the family to suspend the bike indoors, from ceiling or wall. Then all I’ll be pondering is the “rolling risk.” I have a few follow-up questions:
1.) Any thoughts on good indoor bike-hanging gear?
2.) For “rolling risk,” (during daytime trips in highly-public metro areas, both with brief bike-absence and with multi-hour absence) could I reconfirm your best recommendations?
3.) Got a huge kick on reading your blog about personal experiences in keeping bikes outside. When you said that componentry was vanishing (at one stage) it brought to mind my disc brakes. To prevent someone from nicking them while I’m indoors somewhere for an extended period should I be using more HexLox (not sure if they come that small!) or Ottolok?
4.) Helmets. Ai-ai-ai. Secure with what? Fancy accessories like Spurcycle bell?
1) I like Hiplok a lot and they do a secure hanger
2) The NY Noose is a good choice. When you lock your bike, I’d recommend you wrap it tightly around the top tube so a thief can’t manouvere it close to the floor where they’d be able to use the ground as leverage with bolt cutters.
3) Hexlox definitely if they fit (they go as small as 4 mm)
4) Helemts, I’d say take with you. Spurcycle Bell are attached with a 2.5 mm hex key so Hexlox won’t work. I’ve had loads of cheap bells stolen in the past so you definitely need to address this! What I do now is fill the screw head or hex hole with glue or filler. Not nice but seems to work.
(another follow-up by Guy with Trek Checkpoint)
BTW, cost is a secondary consideration: if my unique needs suggest two – or even three – strategies and sets of locks, so be it. Cycling is one area where I’m hesitant to cut corners whenever there’s some benefit. Call it “cheap therapy”!
If you want to add another lock then the Abus Granit X-Plus 54 Mini is a a great choice and won’t add to the weight too much. The good thing about 2 locks is that you can pick and choose depending on where you’re going. Take one, the other or both depending on how sketchy the area is, how long you’re likely to leave your bike etc.
(and yet a second follow-up thought by Guy etc.)
In my situation, still assuming I won’t be leaving it outside at night (but rather bringing it into the townhome), should I throw these two locks out of consideration? ~
• TiGr mini+
• LiteLok, single, or two either daisy-chained together for length or used separately for front and back
IiGr mini is very small so it’s no good if you’ll sometimes be in places where there aren’t racks.
The Litelok could work if weight is a big issue for you. But it’s definitely not as secure as the NY Noose.
You’ve recommended a tight fitting u lock for the seat tube, rear wheel, and pedal; which would put the lock near the ground AND you’ve also recommended the u lock be positioned as far up the seat tube as possible. Do these recommendations conflict with one another? I own a Onguard Brute STD u lock, if that makes a difference.
Hi Eric,
Yes it is a slightly conflicting advice!
Keeping the lock high makes it less vulnerable to bolt cropper attacks (where using the ground for leverage greatly increases the force of an attack). Fitting the lock around the seat tube, rear wheel, and pedal decreases the space inside the lock (where a length of metal or car jack could be inserted to pop the lock open).
Which one you choose depends on the relative strengths and weaknesses of your lock.
In your case, the Brute has a super thick 16mm shackle. Even close to the ground this is impossible to break with bolt cutters. However it could still be popped open if a thief can fit a bar (or more likely a car jack) inside.
So in your case: fill the space inside the lock and don’t worry too much about it being close to the ground (although always keep it off the ground).
Hope that helps!
Resolved to do this, as you suggest:
• Kryptonite New York Noose … standard security for day runs and errands
• Abus Granit X Plus 54 Mini … alternate security for day run and errands to low-risk areas
• HipLock AirLok … standard security for indoor night-time storage
• stainless steel ball bearings and superglue (with Z-7 Debonder in toolbox) … for Spurcycle clamp
My only question: If I can tolerate a little more weight and size in the second situation above, would it give more flexibility if I used a bigger Abus Granit X-Plus product instead of the 54 Mini? ~
• either the Abus Granit X Plus 540/230
• or the Abus Granit X Plus 540/300
Yep sure they’ll give you more locking options. The Abus uGrip Plus 501 is Sold Secure Gold as well, but isn’t as secure as the 540.
And don’t forget combining the noose and the u-lock will give even greater security for particularly sketchy areas / longer stays!
Ooops, please throw the Abus uGrip Plus 501 in that last list of possible alternates to the Abus granit X Plus 54 Mini.
Carl, here is what Ian at HexLox emailed me regarding how to secure any fancy pedals from “unauthorized removal.” It involves frustrating the baddie by using Hexlox on the Allen sockets of the pedals and also introducing a metal shield on the shank of the pedal, so that they can’t be removed by the alternate way, using a pedal spanner ~
“What I have done for myself once is buy some stainless pipe and cut it to 8-12mm long , if your lucky there is no lathe involved.. – this sleeve is put over the spanner area of the pedal before installing it with an Allen Key (some tape between them so there is no rattling).”
He also mentions they may be able to fabricate it. Hmmm, maybe an additional security product from them?!
Good tip!
Hi Carl,
Your advice has been invaluable. I’ve done several things we’d discussed here:
• bought the Abus Granit X-Plus 54
• bought the Kryptonite New York Noose
• bought and installed HexLox on everything, including saddle, seat post, head, handlebars, through-axles, adjustable drop-outs (unique aspect of Trek Checkpoint), water bottle brackets, etc.
• bought TiGr mini+, essentially for speedy rides where I never expect to leave the bike unaccompanied
• got 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/16” ball bearings and superglue and X-7 Debonder to use on the 2.5mm and 3mm Allen bolts for which there can be no Hexlox (Hope headlight, Spurcycle bell, etc.)
I plan to calculate the total expenses for this bike and see whether I’ve hit 30% (?!) for security. This, before incuding any Velosurance or equal! They should give me such a discounted premium! (sigh, no such luck.)
I found a Bell Catalyst 550 at a local discount store that I like for a budget lock. It’s a double-bit lock, and the “U” is rectangular, which means that a thief would have to cut both legs of the “U” to get the bike instead of cutting one leg of the “U” and rotating the lock cylinder in order to release the lock cylinder from the”U”.
Bell claims that the lock has been tested by a standards organization, but I did not see who tested the lock on their web page.
I doubt the Bell lockhas been tested by anyone reputable Alain. Make sure you regularly clean and lubricate both the mechanism and the ends of the shackle as these locks have a bad reputation for seizing up.
More details here: https://thebestbikelock.com/best-bike-lock/how-to-stop-your-bike-lock-jamming/
Trade-offs abound! For homeowners, check insurance carefully; anything inside a locked house or garage may be covered, or added for a nominal rider fee, or else see if a specific sub-policy can be added just for the bike. Once outside, it is a crapshoot, and no regular insurance will cover. If you own a large SUV etc where a bike can fit into it, car insurance may be cheaper coverage than other options. As to locking, once thieves target your bike, it becomes an elapsed time event; when, for how long, do you leave it unattended, how predictably. Locking it within a carport or area not directly in sight from passing cars or others may make it unknown to thieves, unless they watch you one day going in or out. Disguised bikes aren’t necessarily less attractive, either, as they can easily see through gunk and old paint jobs. A paradox for bike lovers may be to ride the worst bike you can tolerate for the job – a true junker if commuting is short may be better than a sleek fixie. Committed distance/all season commuters should demand allowance for the bike in your office/workspace, but still lock it there as well!
Thank you for such a wonderful resource about bike locks. I wanted to share my locking strategy, because it involves the type of lock you did not mention on your site. My new e-bike came with a frame lock, Abus 5650. I already owned Fahgettaboudit Mini, but given the size of frame and wheels on the e-bike the Mini could only lock the frame, locking wheel tire using Sheldon strategy did not make sense given the frame lock that already provided decent deterrent with the rear wheel. My bike came with two quick releases, front wheel and saddle post, rear wheel did not have quick release because of the internal gear hub. So, I replaced front wheel quick release with locking skewer, and installed pitlock pit stopper on the seat post clamp. Then I purchased the Abus noose chain that plugs into Abus frame lock, and I use that to secure front wheel to the rear wheel around bike rack and through the Mini. I also use seat leash cable that locks into the same frame lock. The entire setup can be seen here: https://imgur.com/a/xHAAV5M
Thanks! Tha looks like a really secure combination.
Have you heard anything about bike lockers? My university has individual bike lockers that can be rented like these (https://cyclesafe.com/product-category/bike-lockers/), but I haven’t been able to find anything about the security of them, other than claims from the companies that make them.
Thanks Erin, they do look really secure!
Lockers like these tend to be sold to other commercial companies and local authorites rather than individuals though.
Hi Carl
I echo everyone else’s comments about your amazing site and the amount of methodical hard work you’ve put into it -thank you!
Until last week, I was relying on a soldsecure gold Abus 6500 bordo lock for my pride-and-joy Brompton folding bike on its own.
I’ve now got a Kryptonite M18WL on order for approval at my local bike shop and am planning to use that along with the Abus bordo on those very rare occasions when I have to leave the Brompton outside somewhere.
Much of what you say in this post is obviously relevant, but I just wondered if you would be able to point me to some specific advice on the best way to lock a folding bike like a Brompton? I’m thinking that the Kryptonite (assuming it’s long enough) would go through the triangle of the frame, ideally with the bike folded, to attach to my securing point, along with the Bordo through both wheels and through the D-Lock, but I’d really value your expert input. Thank you 🙂
So sorry about the late reply Helen.
I haven’t got any personal experience of locking Bromptons. But I suppose one of the attractions of a Brompton is that you can take it most places with you, so reducing the need to lock it up as often!
Obviously there will be occasions that you’ll need to lock it though and your suggestion sound very secure to me. The Kryptonite M18WL is a very tough lock!
Just make sure you don’t leave any space for a hydraulic jack within the D and you should be OK!
Thanks for ALL the very valuable information for it has been a Great Help, and Very Interesting as well!!!
Keep up the good work,
Scott
I use locks only for the minutes it takes to renew my library book or order a coffee. When I ride to work I take my bike inside and park it in my office. In the past I parked in a storage room.
At home the bike is in the house with me, sometimes in the garage, most of the time in the living room.
I don’t rely on any locks for more than a moment or two b/c of rechargeable grinders.
Fortunately my town is pretty safe. Never had but one scare here when a shady fellow wanted to know all about my bike which was parked 50 ft from my 2 min errand. I kept an eye on him the whole time. It was locked, but still…
If I ever move some place where my bikes can’t be inside I’ll probably only ride my $40 gravel bike.
Thank you for the information! Very informative as I have decided to dust off my old bike and start using it again. I was trying to find information on the best lock to use. Now I just have to find them in Canada!
Hello, thanks for this article, so helpful! I am a social worker in the fairly big city of Toronto Ont Canada… I ride daily for my job to various parts of the city and have never had a car…. One thing I would like to make a friendly suggestion about is reducing the words “sketchy areas”. While we definitely have areas that might be labelled this way, bikes are taken by all sorts of people all over the place including our homes….. 1) The “sketchy areas” often have people who are further and further being isolated from supports and assistance as govnts decide to cut funds and b) anyone can end up in trouble and c) we need to join communities not separate them. d) And to also not give false security or false alarm. “Sketchy areas” ARE part of our cities and we need to not abandon them even in the kind of language we use. We can use kinda universal concepts about bike safety ie dont lock them on dark streets without any other bikes or yada yada. Of COURSE some areas have more thefts than others but dont think u can make assumptions about any area; thefts happen everywhere. It also enables govnts to reduce support for “those people” the more we isolate them as a separate group. Much love and thanks. Great article on bike safety though, by the way. Learned alot about locks!
Thanks for the feedback JJ. I totally agree that we shouldn’t isolate the deprived areas of our cities and demonize the people who live there. But in this case I think “sketchy areas” just means areas of high bike crime and that will be the CBD as much as the sort of places you’re talking about.
You can try Tasslock. It’s a bit expensive, but more secure.
Thank you for this immensely informative website. I stumbled across this while querying Google and this was the one stop shop for info.
Thanks so much for the useful and in-depth information. I’ve been using an old lock (Krypto, probably could do it in with a Bic) and we just got e-bikes for commuting. One with an Abus 540 and the other with a Kryptonite Evolution 4, then we use a couple old Krypto U-locks for the secondary lock, with a cable that loops to the seat and just makes it look like a hot mess of lockingness. I’m feeling up-to-date and even relatively secure in a world of bike thieves. Keep up the great work!
I used that Sheldon method for months in New York and Brooklyn with the orange kryptonite lock and cable chain. Even ended up leaving it locked in Bushwick for over a month, the front wheel was toast but that SHELDON METHOD WORKED. No one touched the U lock.
Mmm good to know!
Thank you for your invaluable resource!
I was wondering if the following would be a better combo than the oft touted #2 method.
1. Do the standard U-lock method for the frame and rear wheel.
2. Instead of the cable feeding into the U-lock, use a separate cable lock (e.g. a combination lock); one with a good length and wrap that around the front wheel and frame multiple times, like a coiled snake.
This way a prospective thief would have to bolt cut it multiple times rather than once.
Is my logic sound with regards to the above?
Hi Chris,
I don’t understand why a thief would have to cut the coiled cable lock multiple times.
If it’s cut once the thief could uncoil it in the same way you would uncoil it after unlocking it, no?
Thanks
Carl
I’m curious what you think of the new HipLok Ankr wall anchor for storage in a
garage?
It looks great!
From a Security (in General) expert. The best bike lock is the one you use, properly attached. Multiple locks just add to the time it takes: even the best are broken in less than 60 secs each. But then you might as well have a separate bike carrier to take them along with you, so whats the point (spending $ for a super light bike and then adding all that weight back in). Opportunistic thieves are who you are trying to defend against. Professional thieves will take less than 60 seconds; get over it. Professional thieves are few an far between; so enjoy your ride and don’t worry about being struck by lightning. Etch a serial number to the bike and log the number with the local police (before locking up the bike) – that way you give the police a shot at catching the thieves and lowering the crime rate.
What is a good method for securing a bike when there isn’t an immovable object?
(“Good” in this case meaning “least bad”.)
I am in the market for a bike. I haven’t had a bike for about 20 years, so I’m quite excited about it. Though I’m also reasonably concerned about theft (which brings me to this site).
I live in a fairly rural area with not much in terms of bike-specific immovable objects to secure a bike to. My future bike will mostly be for fitness activities, so the use case will be me removing the bike from my home, riding it for some time, and bringing the bike back inside my home. But I can imagine there will be times in which I will need to leave the bike outside for some amount of time. If I need to secure the bike to a sign post (not ideal), a tree (not ideal) because I have no other option, what would be a good (/least bad) method for doing this?
Thank you!
Hi Matt,
Something like the wearable Litelok might work well in this case. It has a wider locking circumference than most locks so is more likely to get around a sign post or tree if needed.
Plus it’s relatively light and you can wear it around your waist like a belt, so it should be easy to carry.
Even in a rural area I wouldn’t recommend leaving your bike unlocked and unattended. I suppose you could lock the wheel to the frame to make it un-ridable. But I wouldn’t recommend letting it out of your sight if you do that!
I hope that helps!
Carl
Hi Matt,
Rural=opportunistic crime only; so no bolt cutters envisaged. Go to your local hardware store and buy a chain and reasonably good lock. Length of chain to go around your local typical tree diameter (and loop through the bike frame and wheels). This will be the least expensive and most effective. Depending on your tree diameter you could look at cable locks but will find that for a reasonable length cable these will become expensive. Personally I disagree with Carl and see the Litelok as complete overkill given its cost. Given the rural location, where walking around with, and operating,a BOAG (battery operated angle grinder) would cause no raised eyebrows; pretty much everything past a chain is a waste of money, if there are thieves and they are targeting bikes. As I remember the record on a BOAG vs. Litelock is 20 secs using a diamond blade (Check on YouTube); talk about a knife through butter!
In ADDITION (this was included in a good London Met Police video on bike security). Etch a number onto your bike and email a photo of this and your bike to your local police (record it as being done before a theft). If your bike is subsequently stolen give this photo again to the police; they have about a 100x better chance of finding your bike and catching a thief.
It’s just as well Matt said the bike was for “fitness activities”, because if he’s carrying around a chain that’s long enough to go around a tree, the frame and both wheels, he’ll be carrying around a huge amount of weight Keith!
There’s is a Silver rated version of the Litelok, which is lighter and cheaper than the Gold and I think that would be better for Matts needs. For sure: it’s not cheap. But you’re paying for a manageable weight.
Another alternative would be the Tex-lock, although again it’s not cheap.
Neither the Liteloks, the Tex-lock, nor a cheap chain from a hardware store will last more than a few seconds against an angle grinder. But I would say he’s unlikely to encounter a thief with one out in the sticks. And if he does there’s no lock that’s going to resist it for more than 1 minute.
I think the rural location means less risk, so practicality becomes more important than top level security. It just depends how much he wants to pay to keep the weight down.
Hi Carl,
I get the point about the weight, but as Matt pointed out there are no immovable objects for him to use with the Litelok. If we give up on the need to secure the bike to a (rural) immovable object than I would still support the chain idea – just a short and light duty one where the weight penalty would be minimum. In engineering this is known as the KISS principle. Weight on a bike is also one of those +/- things. Yes, Matts goal is physical activity. More weight = more exercise for a given time period, so if exercise is you goal more weight is good. But not if it is poorly distributed o the bike (leading to a higher risk of accident) – put it around your waist. Also not if it overwhelms your physical ability (peak heart rate) to travel your route of choice – go with a lighter weight bike & bike accessory weight, lose body weight (will happen anyway with more exercise)or choose easier routes.
Final word to Matt: don’t let the fear factor (of bike theft) detract from your goal of biking and enjoying your journey (stopping to smell the roses) to its fullest. Pick a device that you can afford that lets you do that; and move on to riding your bike. A simple chain does it for me and a Litelok does it for Carl. Some people like to get actual theft insurance policies to some value of the bike. Either e.g. through Kryponite U-bolt)or their homeowner insurer (who stipulates the locks required). Do whatever makes you happy to ride.
Hi Matt,
Forgot to mention the old trick of putting the chain that you buy inside a used bike tyre as a sleeve. This gives protection against the surfaces that the chain might rug up against; and stops the noise as you carry it about.
Locking your bike in a bike rack is easy, but it is still possible to lock a bike without a bike rack: You can detach the front wheel and tie it along with the rear wheel, put the two wheels together to deter thieves from stealing them. Another option is taking the chain off the rear gears or have the choice to remove the quick-release off the front wheel. A good way to make your bike more unrideable is by taking the front off of the frame,… These can essentially reduce the risk of your bike being stolen.
Great article, with tons of great tips, and reminders of scenarios of which most would likely never think. I’m going to purchasing a Specialized Turbo Tero 4.0 electric MTB next week, and I was quite concerned with how I was going to keep a $7000 bicycle safe. I live in Victoria, British Columbia, a city with a large unhoused population, and terribly high numbers of stolen bicycles. After reading a few of you articles, I’m feeling much better about keeping my bike secure in this crazy city.
Thanks for all of the time and effort you’ve invested into helping out people just like me!
Troy Hoyt
Victoria, BC
Canada
What’s the best way to secure your bike in a Bikehangar? It seems that thieves can break in easily and steal the bikes. Is it better to use two D locks or a ground chain and a D lock? Many thanks for your advice.
It really depends on how secure the respective locks are, Vicky. But all things being equal, I’d say whichever combination allows you to keep the locks furthest from the ground.
Any tips on locking your bike to your vehicle bike rack
Hi Carol,
Use a Sold Secure rated chain lock.
You don’t have to worry too much about bolt cutter attacks as the chain will be way off the ground, so as long as it’s a decent lock (Silver or Gold rated), it’s very unlikely to be defeated.
Thanks!
Carl
I initially purchased a motion detecting disk brake alarm for my motorcycle, but I’m thinking it might work nicely (it’s loud) in conjunction with a lock to say to the thief “try a different bike”.
Yep, could do Mike. I would say alarms work best at home rather in the street though, where bikes are likely to get jiggled about by other cyclists, causing lots of false alarms.
A folding bike is another option. Easier to, carry and store at home and at a workplace where theft isn’t a threat.
This is important. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. My bike got stolen yesterday, second time, and I realized I need to up my game. A Big Abus Bordo locked to a signpost (in the frame, sadly top tube) was not secure enough.