Best Bike Lock of 2025: Strong and Practical

Finding the best lock for your bicycle is tricky. There are loads to choose from. And the wrong decision can have disastrous consequences!

The secret to success is choosing a lock that’s both secure enough to protect your bike and easy enough to use on a daily basis.

This balance between strength and practicality is essential, as far as I'm concerned. And I've been testing bike locks and writing about bicycle security since 2015, so I know what I'm talking about!

With that in mind, I recommend 6 of the best bike locks available today, based on their security level and my user tests.

But if none of them seem quite right for you, don’t worry! After these picks, I’ll show you the three simple steps (including a quick quiz to determine your risk level), that will guarantee you find the perfect bike lock for your needs.

1. Litelok X1

The best all round bike lock in 2025 is still the Litelok X1. This is because the Litelok X1 is one of the few bike locks that offers any kind of protection against thieves wielding cordless angle grinders!

And in 2025, it’s the anti-angle grinder bike lock that still, (just about) provides the best balance between security, practicality and price, for those cyclists that need a higher level of protection.

However, it’s been a busy year, and new releases like the SkunkLock Carbon and the OnGuard RockSolid are now pushing the Litelok X1 very close. More about those two in a second. First, what makes the Litelok X1 so good?

In many towns and cities, it now feels like angle grinders are the most common method of stealing bikes that aren’t secured with flimsy cable locks. And if we’re serious about keeping our bicycles safe, we need a lock that offers some kind of resistance against these tools.

So, how does the Litelok manage this?

The Litelok X1 looks and works just like any other standard size u-lock. But there is a ceramic composite material fused onto its 16 mm shackle. And this material will wear down angle grinder discs as they’re cutting through the lock.

In my tests, it took more than 4 times as long to cut through one side of the Litelok X1, as it did the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit, which was (until the launch of these anti angle grinder locks), the most secure bike lock on the market.

In fact, in my initial test, all the discs I had, wore out before I could cut through the other side of the Litelok X1! So I didn't manage to defeat it at all.

However, it is far from the most resistant of the anti angle grinder locks (check out the Litelok X3, Hiplok D1000 and DX1000 if that’s what you're looking for). In fact, it’s actually one of the least resistant against regular discs.

But what makes the Litelok X1 such a good choice, is that it provides just enough angle grinder resistance to defeat the vast majority of attacks in the street, while keeping the price, down to a level that will be acceptable for most cyclists.

Most of the other angle grinder resistant bike locks are eye-wateringly expensive. And while the Litelok X1 certainly isn’t cheap, it’s not far off the price of a regular Sold Secure Pedal Cycle Diamond u-lock such as the Abus Granit X Plus 540.

On top of that, you can get a great frame mount for the Litelok X1. Occasionally there will be a special offer, where they throw this in for free when you buy the lock. But at the moment it’s available at a 50% discount.

Add in the fact that the Litelok X1 is a decent size which should suit most regular bicycles and ebikes, while maintaining a relatively modest weight of 3.7 lb (1.7 kg), which is about the same as 4.5 cans of Coke, and you have a very practical, high security offering!

In terms of price, the only other comparable angle grinder resistant bike locks are the SkunkLock Carbon (usually the same price: check Amazon) and the OnGuard RockSolid (usually more expensive: check Amazon).

In my latest tests, the SkunkLock Carbon performed incredibly well against regular discs, requiring 14 just to get through one side! However, there are several things that make me reticent about recommending it over the Litelok X1.

Firstly, it performed quite badly against diamond discs. Secondly, the unique design of the SkunkLock Carbon may make it vulnerable to other types of attack. Thirdly, it has not been tested by Sold Secure. And lastly, it is much bulkier and heavier than the Litelok X1, with no option of a frame mount.

For me, the OnGuard RockSolid provides the closest competition for the Litelok X1. It performed significantly better than the Litelok X1 against regular angle grinder discs. Plus, it’s more compact and lighter. So why don’t I recommend it over the Litelok X1?

Firstly, there is no frame mount available for the OnGuard. Secondly, it may be too small for bulkier bicycles and ebikes. Thirdly, I was able to pry open a significant gap in the shackle after 1 cut. And finally, it’s usually a fair bit more expensive than the Litelok X1.

However, OnGuard prices are incredibly variable, so if you shop around, you may be able to get the RockSolid for the same price as the Litelok X1. If that’s the case, and you’re OK with the smaller size and lack of frame mount, then it is a fantastic alternative.

In general, I still think, the Litelok X1 provides the best balance of security, price and practicality for most cyclists.

However, if you ride a very expensive ebike, where you really need the very best protection and the weight and the bulk of your lock are less important, you should probably be looking at a stronger lock.

For more details on my tests and the strengths and weaknesses of each individual lock, check out my full guide to angle grinder resistant bike locks.

2. Kryptonite Kryptolok New-U

Not everyone needs an angle grinder resistant bike lock! And I urge you again: take my quick 3 question quiz to determine your risk level and help you decide whether you do need one, or not!

And for those that don’t, the Kryptonite Kryptolok New-U (which is an upgraded version of the famous Kryptolok Series 2), is still a great, inexpensive alternative.

By improving the shackle so that it locks on both sides rather than just one, Kryptolok has raised its Sold Secure rating from Silver to Pedal Cycle Gold. However, the fact that it keeps its 2/5 rating from ART means it remains very much a medium-security lock.

The best thing about the Kryptolok though, is that it's a great all-rounder...

It's quite light (weighing about the same as 3.5 cans of Coke). And if you attach the frame mount correctly, it's easy to carry while you're riding around.

The generous size means you won't struggle to find places or ways to secure your bike when you get where you're going. And it’s usually available with a supplementary cable lasso to help protect your wheels.

To be honest, I do prefer the keyhole covers and slider keys you get with OnGuard locks, which are easier to use and seem to eliminate disc misalignment. But there isn’t an OnGuard equivalent of the Kryptonite Kryptolok New-U.

And if you really don’t like the key system that comes with the Kryptolok, then you could always go for the KryptoLok Combo [Amazon], which doesn’t use keys at all! It is essentially the same lock, with the same security ratings. But it uses a 4-digit code to lock and unlock rather than a key.

Also, Kryptonite's customer service is undoubtedly the best of all the bike lock brands. This means a whole load of benefits, from free keys to reduced price (or even free) lock replacements in some circumstances.

If you want a Kryptonite lock that's more secure, then you should take a look at their Evolution range. But those locks will be heavier or smaller. And they still won’t stand up to an angle grinder attack.

However, if your circumstances are lower risk, then the Kryptonite Kryptolok will provide you with an easy-to-use bike lock and adequate protection for most circumstances (if you use a proper locking technique), for a very reasonable price.

Read my full, hands-on review of the Kryptolok which includes the best alternatives if it’s not right for you.

3. Foldylock Compact

Folding locks are an increasingly popular alternative to traditional bike locks. This is because they are generally easier to carry and offer more locking opportunities. However, choice is more limited, and most of them are simply not secure enough to recommend.

However, there are some that are definitely worth looking at...

The Foldylock Compact is the lightest folding lock that still offers a reasonable level of protection (Sold Secure Silver). This means it’s not a lock for a high risk circumstances, but if used correctly it will be sufficient for many cyclists (take my quiz to find out if it’s suitable for you).

What’s more, of all the folding locks I’ve tested, it’s also the easiest to use.

The Foldylock Compact is 33″ (85 cm) long, which means it has around the same amount of internal locking space as a standard sized u-lock.

But because it’s flexible, it should actually give you loads more options when you’re looking for somewhere to lock your bike.

At 2.2 lb (1 kg), it doesn't weigh much more than 2.5 cans of Coke. And if you want something even lighter, there is a slightly shorter (75 cm) version, which is also available with a belt clip, so you don’t have to bother with a frame mount at all!

Compared to the Abus Bordo 6000 (which was its nearest rival until the Abus was demoted from a Sold Secure Silver to a Bronze rating), the Foldylock Compact is lighter and much easier to use...

It’s easier to unlock, easier to unfold, easier to get around your bike, and comes with a better frame mount. Plus, it’s usually cheaper! Check the Amazon price for the most up-to-date deals.

So, if your circumstances are lower risk, and you’re looking for a compact, flexible and lightweight alternative to a u-lock, this is a great choice.

Read my hands-on review of the Foldylock Compact, where I also suggest some alternatives if it's not the right bike lock for you. Or check out more of the best lightweight bike locks.

4. Foldylock Forever

Foldylock also offer a high security folding lock called the Foldylock Forever, which is basically a beefed up, heavy-duty version of their standard folding locks (the Classic, Compact, Mini etc).

Measuring 35.4" (90 cm), it’s slightly longer than the Foldylock Compact, which will give you loads of locking opportunities (in the photo above it easily fits around a traffic light, which would be impossible with a u-lock).

And if you ride a particularly chunky ebike, or you need to secure two big bikes at once, there is even a longer 43.3" (110 cm) version they are calling the Foldylock Elite [Amazon]. Just be aware it’s a fair bit heavier too.

More significantly, the arms of the Foldylock Forever are 6.5 mm thick (as opposed to 5 mm thick on their standard folding locks). This extra 1.5 mm helps give it a Sold Secure Pedal Cycle Gold rating (rather than Silver for the other Foldylocks).

The Foldylock Forever arms are also 1 mm thicker than all the other Sold Secure Gold rated folding locks (including the Abus Bordo 6500, the Trelock FS 500 Toro and the Kryptonite Evolution 790).

This extra thickness is complimented by patented rivet protection to deter an attack by nut splitters. Although this type of attack is unlikely in the street, it is a known weakness of locks like the Abus Bordo 6500.

These extra security features mean that the Foldylock Forever is also the only folding lock to be awarded 3/5 stars from ART.

All in all, this makes the Foldylock Forever the most secure folding lock currently available, and it's the only folding lock that is secure enough for mopeds and scooters as well as bicycles!

Indeed, in my tests, I was unable to crop the Foldylock Forever, even with a ridiculously big set of 42” bolt cutters, and I think the only way this lock is likely to be defeated in the street is with a portable angle grinder.

The high security level comes at a cost in weight, though. At 3.88 lb (1.76 kg), it’s a heavy lock, weighing slightly more than 4.5 cans of Coke.

However, like all Foldylocks, it excels in terms of usability. It’s easy to unlock, smooth to unfold and refold, you get a more internal locking space than a standard size u-lock, which means loads of locking opportunities.

And although I’ve read some reviews that suggest that the lock sits either too tightly or too loosely in the mount, I found neither. Just like the Classic, the Forever slides in an out of the plastic mount very smoothly but sits very snugly and safely while in there, with no rattling as you’re cycling around.

Moreover, although it’s not cheap, if you check the prices [Amazon], it’s usually cheaper than the Abus Bordo 6500 and the other high security folding locks. Read my full, hands on Foldylock Forever review for more details.

5. Kryptonite Kryptolok 955 Mini

For those looking for a more traditional bike lock, the Kryptonite Kryptolok Series 2 955 Mini is a short, medium-security chain lock, designed for mobile security.

When locked, it has slightly less internal space than a standard u-lock. But because it's flexible, it provides you with loads more places you can lock your bike.

Like all chains, it's much heavier than u-locks that provide a similar level of security (it weighs about the same as 4.5 cans of Coke). But it's still light and short enough to carry wrapped around your seat post or thrown in a bag.

And when it comes to actually locking your bike up, the integrated locking mechanism makes the whole process much smoother than using the separate padlock you get with most other chains.

With 9 mm links, it’s not the most secure bike lock, but it is rated Sold Secure Pedal Cycle Gold, and it offers far more protection than any cable lock.

Just keep it as far from the ground as possible, so it's safe from bolt cutters. I recommend you wrap it around your seat stays, as in the photo above.

Or you could even secure it around your top tube and then use other methods to protect your wheels.

So, if you're looking for something that's easy to carry and prefer the extra locking options of a chain lock, as long as your circumstances aren't high risk, this is a cheap and reliable option.

If you’re looking for something similar, but more secure, try the Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 1055 Mini, which has 10 mm links, a beefier body, and is the Lock Picking Lawyer’s lock of choice!

Read my hands-on review of the Kryptonite Kryptolok Series 2 955 Mini. And if you're not sure if this is the right one for you, I’ve written a lot more about chain locks.

6. Litelok Core Plus

One of the biggest challenges with bike locks is how to best carry them around. Locks are bulky and heavy. Frame mounts are often ugly and unreliable. And if you need a bigger lock to provide more locking options, these issues are compounded.

Enter “wearable” bike locks.

The Litelok Core Plus is the most secure, “wearable” bike lock currently available, boasting a Pedal Cycle Diamond rating from Sold Secure.

Liteloks are made from something they call "Boaflexicore", which is a complex cable composite (although nothing like a typical cable lock). And the Litelok Core Plus uses an upgraded Boaflexicore Plus, which has been specifically designed to defeat the most advanced cable cutters.

In fact, it’s highly unlikely that anything but an angle grinder will be able to cut through the Litelok Core.

What I like most about the Litelok Core Plus, though, is that when it’s not securing your bike, you can carry it around on your waist like a belt! It’s not the first bike lock to provide this type of functionality; the Hiplok Gold chain can be worn around your waist too.

However, I think the Litelok Core Plus is a better lock than the Hiplok chain for a couple of reasons.

Firstly, it’s more secure. The Hiplok has a lower, Sold Secure Pedal Cycle Gold rating, and can be defeated by bolt cutters (which won't trouble the Litelok Core). And secondly, the Litelok is lighter and sits much more comfortably on the waist.

It’s definitely not perfect....

Unlike the Hiplok chain, it can be quite tricky to get the end of the Litelok through your wheel spokes in some situations. And although it’s available in two lengths, if you want to wear it like a belt, you're limited to the one that fits your waist.

However, I can’t think of another Diamond rated lock that’s as easy to carry around. And even the smallest Litelok Core has a generous locking circumference that gives you loads of options when you're looking for somewhere to secure your bike.

Not everyone will want to wear their bike lock around their waist (and you can also strap it to your frame if you don't). But if it works for you, then the Litelok Core Plus is a very secure and very versatile option. Read my full hands-on review of the Litelok Core Plus.

How to choose the right bike lock for you

If none of my 6 recommendations seem quite right for you, don’t worry! If you keep reading, I'll guide you through 3 simple steps that guarantee you’ll find the perfect lock for both you and your bicycle.

As I’ve already said, the best bike locks won’t just protect your bike. They'll also be easy for you to use on a daily basis.

Your individual circumstances are very important here. They include what type of bike you ride, how expensive it is, where and how you use it, and how much money you can afford to spend.

And that’s a lot to think about! But if we work through the next 3 steps, it’s actually pretty simple:

1. Choose the right level of security
2. Choose the right type of lock
3. Choose the right size lock.

So in Step 1 we’ll work out what level of security you need, and I’ll explain how to find locks that will give you the right amount of protection.

In Step 2 I’ll introduce the various different types of bike locks and show you how to choose the lock type that suits your individual needs.

And in Step 3 I’ll explain how to choose the right size lock for the type of bike you ride and how you like to secure it.

Ready? OK, let’s get going!

Step 1: Choose the right level of security

The ultimate job of any lock is to prevent the theft of your bike. So the first and most important step is to work out what level of protection you’ll need.

But it’s not simply a case of picking the strongest lock. Because with bike locks, extra strength means greater weight or smaller size. Or usually, both!

So if you choose a lock that isn’t secure enough, your bike will obviously be stolen pretty quickly.

But if you choose a bike that’s more secure than your circumstances require, the extra weight or limited size of that lock will make it much less practical, for no good reason. So you might use it less, or wrongly, or even not at all.

And then your bike still gets stolen!

So it’s important that you match the strength of your lock to your actual risk level. The easiest way to do that is to answer the 3 questions in this quiz…

If you’ve just completed the quiz, then you'll have been recommended a Sold Secure Silver, Gold or Diamond rated bike lock.

And you may now be thinking “who or what is Sold Secure???”!

Who are Sold Secure?

Sold Secure is an independent organization that tests and rates bike locks and other security products according to the levels of protection they provide.

Bike locks are rated Bronze (least secure), Silver, Gold or Diamond (most secure), depending on how long they can withstand an attack in the Sold Secure workshop.

More specifically:

• Diamond rated locks offer “the highest level of security” (tests include angle grinders)
• Gold rated locks offer “a high level of resistance against a dedicated thief”
• Silver rated locks offer “a compromise between security and cost”
• Bronze rated locks offer “defense against the opportunist thief”

However, these classifications are complicated by a further distinction between Pedal Cycles (regular bicycles) and Powered Cycles (ebikes and motorbikes), for the Gold and Diamond ratings.

So there are actually 5 different levels of security, spread across 6 classifications (from most to least secure):

1. Powered Cycle Diamond
2. Powered Cycle Gold & Pedal Cycle Diamond
3. Pedal Cycle Gold
4. Pedal Cycle Silver
5. Pedal Cycle Bronze

Which is all very confusing!

But, the most important thing to note is that the Powered Cycle Gold & Pedal Cycle Diamond ratings are the same. The tests for Powered Gold and Pedal Diamond are exactly the same, so the ratings are equal, too.

I explain this in more detail in the Sold Secure Gold and Diamond pages.

Why should we trust Sold Secure?

Sold Secure test and rate more bike locks than anyone else. They use standardized tools, and methods that are informed by what real thieves are using in the street. This includes both brute force and picking techniques.

They maintain close relationships with both the police and insurance companies to keep their methods up to date. And the locks must be resubmitted for testing every year, or they lose their rating.

Most insurance companies require you to use a Sold Secure rated lock before they’ll insure you, (with the level of cover dependent on which rating your lock has). If you don’t use a Sold Secure rated lock, they won’t cover you.

All this means that we should trust the Sold Secure ratings. They know whet they're doing!

However, there are other ways to measure the strength of bike locks, and we should at least consider these too…

Other Independent Testers

Sold Secure are not the only independent organization that tests and rates bike locks. In Holland, ART provide the same service. They rate locks from 1 to 5 (with 5 being the strongest), according to how well they endure attack.

ART employ both machine tests (tensile strength, torsion strength, cutting, corrosion, dust and freeze tests), and tests by engineers (brute and intelligent attack tests) to produce their ratings:

• 1 star is minimum security (“take away security”)
• 2 stars for bicycles
• 3 stars for mopeds and scooters
• 4 stars for motorcycles (on the road)
• 5 stars for motorcycles (parked at home)

Sold Secure vs ART

ART test and rate far fewer locks than Sold Secure, and their classification is narrower. However, we can use their ratings in conjunction with Sold Secure to get a more granular idea of a lock’s security.

For example, if two locks both have a Sold Secure Gold rating, but one's been awarded 2/5 stars from ART, while the other has 3/5 stars from ART, then the second lock is obviously the most secure.

This is actually a really common situation, and is a useful way to filter locks further by security.

Online Tests (are a bit rubbish)

There are tons of different cycling, product review websites and YouTube channels which publish articles describing how they attacked a few bike locks with different tools, in order to tell you which one is the best.

They make entertaining reading. But there are a few reasons to be wary of these articles...

They don’t test many locks. They don’t use standardized tools or methods. And without inside info, they don't necessarily attack the locks in the same way a thief would. So it’s difficult to be sure of the results.

This is a really important point: it doesn't matter if you defeated a lock with a tool that thieves don't use. Thieves carry a limited tool set (cable cutters, medium size bolt cutters, pry bars and angle grinders).

They don't use nut splitters or expensive Japanese cable cutters. They don't use drills (anymore). And they don't pick locks!

Plus, these tests tend to largely ignore, issues around practicality (such as how easy the locks are to carry and use), which are really important, because there is no "one size fits all" solution.

In fact, beyond “all cable locks are rubbish” and “an angle grinder will cut through anything”, the conclusions they draw are neither certain nor particularly useful.

And there are so many recommendations, on high profile websites, that are clearly wrong, that I just don’t trust them!

Lock Brand Ratings (are confusing)

All the top brands have created their own rating systems to help us compare the different security levels of their own locks.

And while these are useful for choosing a lock from that one manufacturer, because the rating systems are all different, they’re no good when you want to compare different brands.

How I use the Sold Secure Ratings

So the bottom line is this: establish your risk level by answering the questions in the quiz above. If you’re “high risk” you’ll need a Gold or Diamond rated lock. If you’re “lower risk”, you’ll probably be OK with a Silver rated lock.

I don’t recommend Sold Secure Bronze locks for any circumstances because they offer very little practical protection.

You might be OK with a Bronze rated lock in a really low risk area, but I don’t feel comfortable recommending locks that can be defeated so easily.

And there’s such a huge variety of locks at different sizes, weights and prices, that you should be able to find one that’s rated Sold Secure Silver or better, that suits your specific circumstances.

Step 2: Choose the right type of bike lock

This is almost as important as Step 1. Because the type of lock you choose will determine how easy it is to use. If it’s difficult, you’ll stop using it. And that’s when your bike will be stolen!

So it’s important you don’t choose a lock that’s too heavy or too small. Or one that’s difficult to carry, complicated to secure, or that severely limits the places you’re able to lock your bike.

Obviously, this will depend on your individual circumstances. But if we look at the advantages and disadvantages of each type of lock, it should quickly become clear which is the best one for you.

There are four, well established types of bike lock to choose from:

And each of these locks offers a compromise between three fundamental qualities:

1. Price
2. Practicality
3. Security

The main thing to notice in the chart above, is that while u-locks, chain locks and folding locks all offer a reasonable balance of price, practicality and security, cable locks don’t!

Yes, they might be cheap, and they might be easy to use, but they offer very little security. So please...

Do not buy a cable lock!

But to work out which one of the others is best for your needs, let’s look at each one in more detail.

U-locks / D-locks

U-locks (also known as a D-locks) are like giant padlocks that fasten around our bikes and whatever we're trying to secure them to.

Good u-locks provide a nice balance between price, practicality and security. They're generally cheaper, lighter and a little bit easier to use than chain locks, while still providing a high level of protection.

Because of their rigidity, they can be more challenging to carry than chain locks. And their limited size and shape means you’ll find fewer things you can secure your bike to.

However, in general, if you’re only going to buy one bike lock, then I would recommend you get a u-lock.

They range in price from around $40 / £30 for a decent budget lock, up to $350 / £300 for the most reliable and secure, anti-angle grinder models. So you should be able to find one to suit your wallet.

However, there are a number of things you should think about carefully before you buy a u-lock, including which size you'll need and how you’re going to carry it around.

The two u-locks I recommend at the top of this page are standard size. This means they're big enough to fit around a whole load of objects, and are therefore suitable for almost everyone, no matter what type of bike they ride and where they lock it!

That's why I recommend them.

However, there are other sizes of u-lock, and smaller sizes are increasingly popular. So let's take a quick look at one of the best…

Kryptonite New-U Evolution Mini-7

The Evolution Mini-7 has been the Wirecutter's best lock recommendation for several years now, and it is a fantastic lock. But it won't be suitable for everyone…

There's a lot to like about the Mini-7. The 13 mm shackle is cast from Kryptonite's strongest "max performance" steel, and it locks into the crossbar on both sides.

This makes it more resistant to both cutting and leverage attacks. And it's reflected in the Pedal Cycle Gold rating from Sold Secure.

It also comes with a cable which you can use to protect your wheels. And a decent enough frame mount (if you install it correctly).

It's more secure than the Kryptonite Kryptolok. And it's lighter than the Litelok X1 and many other Gold and Diamond rated locks (it weighs less than 3 cans of Coke without the cable).

But there are a couple of things you need to remember before you rush out and buy it...

Firstly, although it's Sold Secure Gold, it was only giver 2/5 from ART. This puts it at the lower end of the Gold scale. Don't get me wrong: it's still a very secure lock. It's just not up there with the very best.

It certainly won't put up any kind of resistance against an angle grinder.

Secondly, it's a mini u-lock. This makes it significantly narrower than a standard u-lock, which means you're pretty much limited to using it at bike racks. And depending on the type of bike you ride, you may not be able to lock your bike how you’d like to…

For example, if you have fatter wheels and/or a thicker frame, you may be unable to get this lock around your wheel, your frame and the rack.

However, if you're prepared to be flexible and change your locking technique, you should be able to use this lock to properly secure any type of bike on a rack.

Now I like this lock. It works really well for my circumstances. But the fact that it restricts you to bike racks makes it difficult to recommend unequivocally as a lock that works for everyone else.

Read my full review of the Kryptonite Evolution Mini-7.

Chain locks

Chain locks usually consist of a long metal chain (covered by a sleeve to protect your paintwork) and a big lock.

We can divide chain locks into two broad groups:

1. those that are light enough to be portable (< 12 mm)
2. those that are so heavy, they are best as stationary security (> 12 mm).

Portable Chains

These are easy to carry wrapped around your seat post or thrown in a bag. And their length and flexibility mean you can lock your bike to a wide range of different objects.

However, these chains will definitely be no more than 12 mm thick (even a 12 mm chain is pushing it a bit), and are not as secure as good u-locks. Plus, they're still much heavier than u-locks.

Stationary Chains

A super thick, core hardened steel chain with a heavy, top quality padlock is perhaps the most secure way to lock your bike.

However, these chains are so heavy and cumbersome that they generally work best as a second, stationary lock, which you leave wherever your bike is regularly secured for long periods of time.

Chain locks range in price from around $70 / £55 for a short, budget model up to $500 / £390 for the thickest, heaviest monsters. So they’re also a bit more expensive than u-locks.

As with u-locks, you should think carefully about what size and thickness you need and how you will carry it about if you want a portable chain.

The two chains I recommend at the top of this page (the Kryptolok and Evolution), will work as portable security. So let's take a quick look at one of the best stationary chain locks…

Best Chain Lock For Stationary Security and Ebikes: Hiplok DXXL

With both Pragmasis and Almax going bust, I think the Hiplok DXXL is now one of the best, readily available chain locks for stationary security.

Weighing 13.46 lb (6.11 kg), which is around the same as 16.5 cans of Coke, it’s not really portable! This is a lock that usually stays wherever you lock your bike all day or overnight. Although you could definitely take it out on an ebike.

As well as the 14 mm chain, it features a 14 mm shackle u-lock, the Hiplok DX. Which means the Hiplok DXXL can be used for both a portable and stationary security: the u-lock by itself in the street and then in conjunction with the chain at home.

The chain is 59" (150 cm) long and uses a noose-style design to maximize its locking reach, with the u-lock extending that further. And when paired with a wall or floor anchor like the Hiplok ANKR [Amazon], it’s a very practical way to protect your bike at home.

Although the 14 mm links can theoretically be cropped by the very biggest 42” bolt cutters it is very unlikely and, and you can minimize the risk further with a locking technique that keeps the lock far from the ground.

So if you're looking for a high security chain lock for your bike shed or other bike storage solution, then this is a fantastic, albeit pricey choice. See how it compares to other chain locks here.

Folding Locks

Folding locks are made up of a series of metal plates linked together by rivets. They fold down into a tight package for carrying around, and then unfold out to make a flexible shape that fastens around your bike.

They're generally a little bit heavier than u-locks that offer similar levels of security. But their length and flexibility give you more options than a standard sized u-lock when you’re looking for somewhere to lock your bike.

And the best thing about them is the way they fold down to make a very compact package that’s super easy to transport.

The carrying holster can either Velcro around your frame, or even better, screw into your bottle holder holes. And because the lock is so compact, it won’t work loose, swing about or generally interfere with your ride in the way that u-locks sometimes do.

I don’t think it’s quite as easy to secure your bike with a folding lock as a u-lock or chain. Unfolding them and then getting them around your bike and the object you’re securing it to can sometimes be a bit of a pain.

And because of their comparatively complex build, I have some doubts about how well they’ll continue to perform after a thief has tried (and failed) to defeat them.

But if you’re fed up with under performing u-lock frame mounts and the limited places you can use u-locks, folding locks are a fantastic alternative.

Cable locks (are rubbish!)

Cable locks are normally made up of many strands of long, thin steel, braided together inside a plastic tube.

They’re light, flexible and generally cheap. However, this flexibility means that they’re also soft, and almost all cable locks can be cut with a pair of hand held cable or bolt cutters in a matter of seconds.

And since the one tool that virtually every bike thief carries is a pair of cable cutters, cable locks offer very little practical security.

Bike thieves specifically target these locks and in fact, many bike theft statistics in the US and the UK suggest that 90% of all stolen bikes are secured with cable locks.

So by not buying a cable lock, you are already massively reducing the chances of your bike being stolen!

You can use cable locks as a secondary lock to secure your wheels or saddle. However, I think there are much better ways to secure your wheels and saddle.

Innovative Locks

These locks tend to be born in the minds of maverick individuals and initially funded through the pages of crowdfunding websites such as Kickstarter.

Unfortunately, they often overlook the need to prove the security credentials of their inventions (even though it should really be a priority if you’re trying to sell us a new form of security). So the locks are not usually tested and rated by Sold Secure or ART.

However, there are some that have been tested and rated, and are worth taking a look at, such as the titanium TiGr Mini and the textile Tex-lock.

Bear in mind though, that these innovative locks tend to be more expensive than their security levels warrant, so should only really be considered if there is a specific usability issue that they address that other locks don't!

U-locks vs Chain locks vs Folding locks

I talk about the pros and cons of u-locks and chains in much more detail in the u-lock vs chain lock page. But to summarize here...

Portable Security

If you’re looking for a lock to carry around with you every day, then a u-lock is generally the best choice.

Since they are usually lighter, cheaper and more secure than portable chains, they provide the nicest balance between security, practicality and price.

Of course, there could be good reasons to choose a chain over a u-lock. Maybe you need more locking options than a u-lock offers. Or maybe you don’t like the frame mounts that come with u-locks.

But in most cases, u-locks are the best option for portable security.

Stationary Security

If you’re looking for a lock that stays in one place, at home or at work, then a big, heavy chain is the better choice. A thick chain with a strong lock provides the very highest level of security for your bike.

They're more difficult to attack with power tools, impossible to bolt crop (when 16 mm or more), and immune to bottle jack attacks. You can secure multiple bikes with one chain. And they also work better with ground anchors.

Just don’t try to take them with you when you nip to the shops!

What about Folding Locks?

Just like u-locks, folding locks are best suited to mobile security. And they address two of the main problems with u-locks: their rigid shape and how difficult they can be to carry around on your bike.

Because they're more flexible, you will find more places you can lock your bike up. And because they're so compact when folded up, they are much easier to transport. They also compete with u-locks in terms of weight (although they're usually just slightly heavier).

However, high security folding locks aren't as secure as high security u-locks. They’re more expensive, too. Plus, since only Abus, Seatylock, Trelock and Kryptonite make decent quality folding locks, your choice is very limited!

But if you have specific needs that u-locks don’t meet, then consider a folding lock before a chain lock for portable security.

Step 3: Choose the right size lock

Once you know how secure your bike lock needs to be, and which type of lock will suit you best, it’s time to think about what size it should be. Because the size of your bike lock has the biggest influence on how you’ll be able to use it.

Or if you'll be able to use it at all!

In an ideal world, we’d all use the smallest, lightest bike lock possible. And that might be fine if you ride a skinny road bike or single speed, in a city that’s full of slim bike racks.

But what if you ride a bulky ebike, or a big framed mountain bike or cruiser? And what if there are no bike racks where you live, and you have to use lampposts, railings or other street furniture.

Then you’ll need a bigger bike lock!

How you lock your bike is also a factor here. Widely accepted wisdom says that your bike lock should secure both your frame and your rear wheel. And that means you'll need a lock that fits around both.

But in reality, there are other ways to secure your wheels. And if your lock can just go around your frame, you can use a smaller lock on a bigger bike! So it’s a good idea to think about how you’re going to lock your bike before you buy the lock.

As a general rule, I would say that bigger bikes (including ebikes, mountain bikes, cruiser bikes, city bikes, comfort bikes, tandems and even some BMXs), are likely to need a lock that has a locking circumference that’s at least as big as a standard size u-lock (around 85 cm).

While slimmer bikes (including road bikes, hybrid bikes, and fixies/single speed), are more likely to get away with the mini u-locks and smaller folding locks.

But it will depend very much on your personal circumstances, so I recommend you think about this carefully.

Which company makes the best bike locks?

Your search for the best bike lock will likely lead you to many similar bike locks from many different brands. So how do you choose between them? Let's take a look at three of the most popular brands...

Abus vs Kryptonite vs OnGuard

I cover this in much more detail in the Abus vs Kryptonite vs OnGuard page (which includes a very detailed review of the different “Anti-theft Protection” schemes). But I’ll also provide a quick summary here.

Abus produce the best quality locks. They're well-made, endlessly tested, very reliable (even in poor weather conditions), and will last a long time. However, they’re the most expensive of the three brands.

Kryptonite also produce high quality locks. Not quite to the standard of Abus, but they make up for this with exceptional customer service. This includes free key and lock replacement in certain circumstances and the best of the anti-theft protection schemes.

OnGuard have a slightly poorer reputation for both build quality and customer service. However, in recent years they've significantly improved the quality of their locks. And they beat both Abus and Kryptonite in terms of price (OnGuard locks are always the cheapest!).

So if you want the very best quality look at Abus, if you want the best price look at OnGuard and if you want the best customer service look at Kryptonite!

Other good bike lock brands

While the big three are the best known, there are actually plenty of other lock brands that are worthy of your consideration.

Hiplok and Litelok were the first brands to produce wearable locks. Along with SkunkLock they were also the first to produce angle grinder resistant locks. And Foldylock dominate the secure folding lock market.

It's interesting that all the important innovation is coming from these smaller brands, but I expect the bigger brands will make efforts to catch up.

Making the Final Decision

If you’ve followed my three simple steps, you should now have a good idea of the security level, lock type, size and brand that best suits your circumstances.

If none of my 6 recommendations are for you, then I suggest you browse one of the complete lists of Sold Secure Silver, Gold or Diamond bike locks, according to your risk level, comparing the sizes, weights and prices until you find the perfect match!

How much money should I spend?

It's just like anything else: the more money you spend, the better quality lock you get. But what does quality mean here?

What a good quality lock gives you first and foremost is reliability. And this is super important when it comes to bike locks.

You don't want a lock with a key that suddenly stops working, a mechanism that gets jammed or a shackle that gets stuck. Locks that stop working properly can cause all sorts of problems…

If it stops working while it's secured to your bike, your bike becomes unusable until the lock is somehow removed (which can be a nightmare). If it stops working before you secure your bike, your bike may be stolen.

These problems are less likely to occur if you buy a better quality lock.

But what about price and security? It's true: there are some cheap, high security locks. And there are plenty of expensive low security locks too!

But in general, high security locks cost more. And reliable, high security locks always cost more!

Many lock brands suggest spending 10% of the value of your bike on your lock. But if you have a $200 bike, and you only spend $20 on the lock, you’re probably asking for trouble.

I recommend you spend as much as you can. This will give you the best reliability and security you can afford. And it will also give you the peace of mind that you’ve done the best you can do to protect your bike.

And don’t forget: a good bike lock can last many years and many bikes. Maybe you’ve got a cheap bike now but if you upgrade in a couple of years, you won't need to shell out again for a better lock as well!

I know that buying a bike lock is not very exciting. And it’s frustrating that you have to spend so much money to protect your stuff. But a cheap lock is a false economy...

Because when your lock gets stuck to your bike, you'll have to pay someone to cut it off and pay for a new lock. Or when your bike is stolen, you’ll have to buy a new bike and a new, better lock!

I learned the hard way, but surely it’s better to get it right first time!

Frequently Asked Questions

In this final section, I’m going to address some of the most common questions I get asked about bike locks. I wanted to keep this information out of the main article, so it doesn’t get too bloated.

But it’s worth reading and may help you make a choice...

Do bike thieves use lock picking techniques?

No, the vast majority of bike thieves wouldn't know how to pick even the most basic locks. And they don’t need to, because most basic bike locks are so easy to defeat with brute force!

For sure, a few bike thieves will have some knowledge and may be carrying basic lock raking tools. But it’s such a tiny percentage, and their skills will usually be so limited, that it’s not worth worrying about if you have a half decent lock.

Celebrity lock pickers like Bosnian Bill and the Lock Picking Lawyer are highly skilled experts who use specialized, bespoke tool sets. And they film in laboratory conditions. So just because they can open a lock in seconds, it doesn’t mean anyone else can.

Yes, in the video below, the Lock Picking Lawyer opens up one of my favorite locks in a minute and a half. But listen to what he says: "it has enough pick resistance to use in the street". That's because no-one in the street has the tools or the skills that he has!

However, it is worth knowing about the different types of lock mechanisms when you’re choosing a bike lock. And there are four widely used types: disc detainer, slider, pin tumbler and wafer.

Disc detainer mechanisms were pioneered by Abloy but are increasingly used in high quality bike locks such as Abus and Kryptonite, as they’re hard wearing and generally quite difficult to pick.

Slider mechanisms are usually characterized by keys that have straight edges with internal teeth. Increasingly used by budget locks like OnGuard and Zefal, depending on how they’ve been implemented, they may be easier or harder to pick.

Finally, pin tumbler and wafer mechanisms are generally the least secure because they’re more susceptible to raking attacks, which don’t require much skill. Wafer mechanisms are particularly easy to open and are best avoided.

What’s the strongest bike lock?

The strongest bike lock, is either the Litelok X3 or the Hiplok D1000. In my tests, the Litelok X3 came out on top.

But both of these locks provide such incredible resistance to angle grinder attacks, that in most real world scenarios, we can almost consider them angle grinder proof.

However, both of these locks are very heavy and incredibly expensive. For many cyclists, a more practical option will be the Litelok X1, which, while less resistant to angle grinder attack, is still far stronger than any regular lock.

It’s also lighter, better sized, and much cheaper than these other two anti angle grinder locks. Check out my Litelok X1 review for all the details and my angle grinder test video!

For more details, check out my article on the strongest bike locks. One important thing to remember is that as bike locks get stronger, they also get heavier or smaller. Often they get heavier and smaller.

What’s the lightest bike lock?

The lightest bike lock that I recommend is the TiGr Mini. However, that doesn't mean it's a good choice for you. The thing with lightweight locks is that they tend to be either insecure or small! Or very expensive.

And “lightweight” can be quite subjective when it comes to bike locks!

Since you obviously don't want to buy an insecure lock, make sure you carefully compare the weight, size and price of any lock claiming to be lightweight to make sure the trade-offs work for you.

I’ve also written a whole article about the lightest bike locks to help you out here!

How can I protect my bike wheels and seat?

You can protect your bike wheels and seat with a range of different security devices, including extra locks, cable lassos, security skewers, hex bolt blockers and plenty of great DIY methods too!

Again, I’ve written a long article about the best ways to secure your bike wheels and seat that considers all the options that are currently available.

What’s the best way to lock my bike?

There is no, one, “best” way to lock your bike. However, there are a number of very bad ways to lock your bike, that are guaranteed to get it stolen.

I’ve written a pretty exhaustive article on how to lock a bike, where I go over all the acceptable ways and all the ways you should never lock your bike. If possible, you should read this before you make a final decision on a lock.

There are secure locking methods that you probably didn't know existed, or thought weren't valid ways to keep your bike safe.

Knowing all the appropriate techniques could help you choose a more user-friendly lock, as there may be perfectly valid locking methods that allow you to use a smaller and lighter model!

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